The most exciting part of this week, though, would probably be my failed attempt at surfing. Since I was all inspired to be "unashamed" I thought why NOT shove my body into a wet suit, go out into the water, and make a complete fool of myself? So I did.
That's Hollie, Ashleigh, Me and Lauren with our boards- we look professional right? Wrong. Not one of us had ever gone out and attempted surfing before. I was about as much as a newb as you can get. Terrible. Already going into this experience I knew it'd be a rough time- I don't like water, I don't really enjoy doing stuff like this and I have terrible balance. All of which are things you should probably like to do if you try surfing. I digress. You don't come to California and not try ya know? Peer pressure. The first fifteen minutes are all fun and games, we're trying to catch the little tiny waves really close to shore and we eventually start going out into deeper water- mind you, I can still stand. As we get deeper I realize that I'm not a good swimmer and probably shouldn't be this far out, especially since up to this point I haven't been able to successfully mount my board cause I keep sliding off the other side, so I decide to attempt to head back in- but I realize I can't. Suddenly I get taken out by a wave, swallow more sea water and who knows what than I'd like to know, and come up choking, completely unable to breathe. I didn't start panicking yet though, because I was trying to be strong and not myself. The second wave that took me out though, drove me to panic.
So now, I can't breath, I can't get on my board, I can barely see cause I got water in my eyes and thus my contacts, and I'm watching the lifeguard stand get further and further away. I see Lauren in front of me and yell her name thinking, "oh good! She can come pull me in." She however didn't realize I was in panic mode and so she ignored me... what a friend. I turn to Ashleigh and Hollie next to me, with an expression of I'm sure pure panic, and yell, "I NEED TO GET BACK TO SHORE! I'M HAVING A PANIC ATTACK!" Ashleigh, bless her heart, goes straight into lifeguard mode and comes to me. At this point, my board has flipped, I'm clinging to the fins for dear life, and she's holding me up and her and Hollie's boards get tangled. It was an intense few moments as we couldn't get any closer to shore instead kept getting pulled back by the waves. Finally she figured out how to get back and so after what felt like 30 minutes, but was more like 3 or 4, we got back to shore where I sat, shaking and unable to breathe, for a good 5 minutes. The thoughts that ran through my head was, "people do this for fun?!" and "Oh no. I've just turned into THAT girl who can't do anything." This, of course, was after I thought, "I'm going to die out here in the ocean cause I have no clue how to signal the lifeguard to come help me."
My friends Angela and Jenny were on shore watching the whole thing and said they saw a struggle but didn't know what had happened. Embarrassing. At this point, my desire to ever try surfing again is about -10%, maybe if I go with someone who can easily rescue me, I'd try again. Regardless, I guess it's a good story.
As I said, my week has been great though. Today I'm going to History Old Town, do some souvenir shopping (get excited family) and hang out. :) Only 2 weeks left- which is so unbelievable. But God is good, and I plan on cherishing every moment I can here. I'll continue to try and keep you posted!
Love in HIM,
Jacks
